The art of soup; 4 recipes to warm you

November 30, 2016

Curried cream of cauliflower and apple soup. photo by Hillary Levin, It wasn’t the best advertising line, but it was undeniably true: Soup is good food. ❡ On a frosty night when the wind is blowing, and the chill sinks deep into your bones, what is it that you turn to? Soup. When you want something warming and comforting after a difficult day, what is it that you most desire? Soup. When you have a cold, what is the only thing that can make you feel better? Soup, especially if it has chicken and noodles in it. ❡ It restoreth the soul. And of course it is always best when your cup runneth over. ❡ At its most elemental level, soup is just water with a bunch of other stuff cooked in it. And that is what makes it so exciting. You can have a free hand to do with it what you will. Take, for instance, my mother’s cabbage soup, which is still one of my favorite soups ever. When she and my father were first married, she asked if he had any favorite dishes he wanted her to prepare. He said he loved a cabbage soup from a famous local delicatessen. My mother called the wife of the deli owner and asked for the recipe. The woman was happy to oblige — but she only knew how to make it for a restaurant, and even then her measurements were inexact. So my mother mixed a bit of this and a handful of...

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